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In the video above, we show you how to fix minor oil leaks in your Volkswagen GTI. We will show you specifically how to determine if the fluid leaking from your GTI is oil, check your oil level and fix the oil leak using stop leak. Extremely low oil levels can critically damage your engine, so it is important to be proactive about oil leaks, however small. Oil leaks in the GTIs with the 2.
Replacing the metal washer should only be done when you change the oil in your GTI, fortunately the video above shows how to fix the minor leak in the interim.
Fixing minor oil leaks is fairly straightforward, but first, make sure that your engine is cold and that your GTI is parked on a level surface when you check the oil level as both of these things can cause the oil level to read low. Check our What is Leaking? Properly inflated tires is the easiest way to improve fuel economy. The right tire pressure is NOT on the side of your tire btw.What is Throttle body leak. Trouble error code P2279
DRLs are on more than your headlights. They burn out faster and should be replaced regularly. Don't send mixed signals - if your turn signal doesn't blink, or blinks rapidly, you likely have a burnt out bulb. There's no reason to check the washer fluid level without adding some - see how to do it here! Odd electrical problems that come out of nowhere can often signify a blown engine fuse - check and change yours here!
Getting Started Prepare for the repair. Set Up Paper Position paper and mark wheels. Assess Leak How to determine if the leaking fluid is oil. Open the Hood How to pop the hood and prop it open.Forums New posts Search forums.
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Thread starter Acadia18 Start date Aug 26, Acadia18 Go Kart Newbie. Location Rhode Island. After driving about 20 miles, my CEL comes on. I check all the intake components I do have an ECS intakeeverything looks fine, check the oil cap and dipstick, all good, etc Clear the code, and light goes off. The car is running perfectly fine, it doesn't idle rough or any way different than normal.
Drives fine, still makes full boost, etc The only thing out of the ordinary, is I have a P3 Boost Gauge which is tapped on the unused port of the manifold not sandwiched between the MAF sensor on topand when my car is idling, the gauge is jumping around a bit.
Usually at idle, it would be fairly static showing a vacuum, to vacuum. Now it jumps around, from showing a the normal vacuum amount, but even going up showing a positive pressure, showing low boost numbers before dropping back down to a vacuum. Idle RPM's are static, not moving.
Any ideas if there is something I should look at or be concerned about? I've put maybe 50 miles on since clearing the CEL, if it was an issue, wouldn't it come back? The only thing I can think of that I haven't had a chance to check yet is the actual boost tap itself, but it wasn't touched when performing the oil change. Give it several more restarts and then check for the stored code again.
GJenkss New member.
18711/P2279/008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
Location MN. Acadia18 said:. Make sure the oil cap is on tight.This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation. Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office to perform the Check Engine Light diagnostic. This means that unmetered air is entering the engine without the engine sensing it going through the mass air flow sensor and throttle body.
The engine control module ECM calculates the amount of air going into the engine through the positive crankcase ventilation PCV system. If the amount of air is more than expected then the Check Engine Light will come on and code P is set. The ECM learns the throttle opening angle and stores it in memory. If the throttle body is cleaned or adjusted without the throttle relearn process performed, then the code may be set. The fuel mileage may be more than before failure since the ECM will try and compensate for the excess air in the engine detected by the O2 sensors.
Scans for codes and documents any codes in the ECM, then looks at the freeze frame data for failure. Checks the throttle body to see if it was recently cleaned and allows relearning of the throttle position, then clears the codes and retests. Clearing ECM memory codes before checking the freeze frame data for the main failure problem, so the failure may be duplicated and repaired. Code P is a code indicating that the ECM is detecting that the engine has too much air entering and sees this as a vacuum leak.
An engine running with too much air will run lean and cause the engine to run rough and stall at low engine speeds. Code P can be from any kind of vacuum leak in an engine.
Some vehicle manufacturers may use different lean codes instead of this code. The code can be generated from a throttle body or idle air control valve cleaning. This can cause the engine to have to lower the throttle plate to maintain the correct idle speed and see this as excess air entering the engine causing the P code to turn on.
A simple relearn of the base idle will fix most of these problems. YourMechanic offers certified mobile mechanics who will come to your home or office to diagnose and repair your vehicle. Get a quote and book an appointment online or speak to a service advisor at With YourMechanic you can skip the auto shop altogether.
They send certified and screened mechanics straight to your door and enable you to save big on car repair and maintenance. Cost of diagnosing the P code. No more waiting rooms! Our mechanics will come to you to diagnose and fix the P code.
Recent Check Engine Light is on Inspection reviews. Excellent Rating. Average Rating 4. Number of Reviews 5, Rating Summary. Johnathon 8 years of experience. Request Johnathon. Johnathon was on time and was very knowledgeable. Going to use in future. Travis 12 years of experience. Request Travis.Remember Me?
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. I've got a VW Passat Wagon with a 2.
If you'd rather I post this in retrofits I can do that. I can clear the code and the car is fine for about a week I've done an internet search, and I keep coming up with the common problem for these engines, failed PCV diaphragm I've visibly checked all the vacuum tubes and hoses I can see no visible tears or damage to the intake tube The intake system is stock factory.
What's strange is, based upon the freeze frame data Almost like it's happening when I just begin to accelerate from a dead stop. I've read where a throttle body can cause this The car runs and idles fine Any other ideas? Anyone else ever have this problem with the 2.
Volkswagen P2279 Intake Air System Leak
Here's the typical fault code I'm getting Last edited by Uwe; at AM. In Conjunction with Dana liked this post. In addition to Jack's N80 isolation which is the best case intermittent false air leak I would suggest checking the rear main seal and the oil separator at the oil filter housing which is the other half of the PCV. Neither of those are great scenarios but: If the rear main seal is leaking that would need to be resolved.
Although it isn't as common on the 2. Jack may have pics to share but all I have to offer is 2. Sometimes rear main seals can suck in un-meetered air without leaking a drop of oil. In those cases you have to use propane or similar while watching fuel trims in MVB and having an assistant hold the RPMs up to see if rich spikes are picked up. If the connections near the TB tube have not already been ruled out, make sure there aren't any air leaks such as the SAI hose.
Yeah I was considering the seals and the oil separator Dana but it is very rare it fails sporadically This is why I added PSI gages to blocks to monitor gases in my experiments of oil consumption "blow by" but also the inverse indicator as a combination vacuum gage. I find this very helpful for diagnosis DanaUweGavinfla liked this post.
Thanks Jack, probably won't get back to it until Monday Will post the results after I check it I agree the N80 purge valve is a great place to start. Due to the fact they are cheap, easy to replace, and have a very high failure rate, you might just replace it, if you haven't already done so.
They tend to get contaminated due to charcoal ingress from the charcoal canister, and consequently have a tendency to fail intermittently, or partially. You could try pulling it off and seeing if you can blow through it. If you can push any air, its bad.
I am pretty sure I've had this same fault, without the Evap flow code P??Forums New posts Trending Search forums. Showcase New items New comments Latest reviews Search showcase. Media New media New comments Search media. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts.
Thread starter Junkyard Dog Start date Dec 5, Junkyard Dog New Member Dec 5, My girlfriend's VW Beetle non-turbo threw a check engine light. Every once in a while, it starts when cold roughly, misfiring very obviously.
Shutting it off and restarting clears it up. Most of the time it starts normally. Anyway, it did it again this morning, and the check engine light illuminated. She shut it off, restarted it, and drove normally the rest of the day. Any ideas on how to diagnose this? The car is running normally now. Last edited: Dec 6, Remove Advertisement. Might be leaky hose or something. Wish I could help more. Junkyard Dog New Member Dec 6, MiniCoopKiller said:. That is a good point.
Let's wait for some others to chime in here and see what they have to say about the topic. Dec 6, Do you hear air hissing? I would guess ripped diaphragm in the pcv. Dec 8, And yes, i also saw that the a whole new assembly might be needed but I dont have one myself to experiment with.
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But luckily today came across the culprit. Rubber Intake coupling where the piping meets the manifold with the spring clamps had a tear in it on the back side out of view.Remember Me?
Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. UweD-DubDana liked this post. First very nice post with PR and auto-scan! The SAI code is most likely induced by your issue from an intake leak. Check the vacuum zone to feed the combi valves and noid for switching the combi valves Check intake while running with non flammable intake spray to induce a miss to identify the leak area.
In Conjunction with D-DubUwe liked this post. Fix the obvious pcv, reset everything and drive and check again. P and P have only just started since February. Some info from the tech that checked over my car a month or so back: Diagnosed the check engine light and found two separate issues. Found a fault stored for the secondary air low flow. I verified that when opening the combination valves, there is no exhaust flow coming in reverse out of the valves.
This could be due to a restriction in the valve, the valve mounting bracket, or it could be that the ports and the head are plugged. In order to fully diagnose and confirm this, we would need to remove the combination valves along with their mounting brackets then verify that they are free of obstructions before recommending a cylinder head cleaning. To Note: This is an emissions problem only and will not affect the drivability of vehicle. I also found faults stored for leaks in the air intake system and for throttle position correlation.
2006-2014 Volkswagen GTI Oil Leak Fix
I verified that underneath the supercharger or around the supercharger that there is an intake leak that can be found by using a leak detection spray and watching the fuel mixture on the car change. This leak is more of a concern and priority to repair due to the fact that it directly affects the drivability of vehicle.
I will need to remove the supercharger in order to inspect the intake for the source of the leaks. Once I determine where the leaks are originating from, I will be able to provide a quote for repairs. While supercharger is off for inspection, I would recommend replacing the thermostat as a preventative and to save on labor costs.